(*This was originally published in 2016, updated for 2024)

For years I used to look wistfully at the Caledonian Sleeper – a long shiny dinosaur on platform 11 in Glasgow Central. Being a romantic at heart I was full of fantasies about Strangers on a Train, Murders on Far Eastern Expresses and Amorous Greetings from Russia. Eventually I persuaded my long-suffering mum to go on an exciting adventure to London on the Sleeper train. And, whilst I was disappointed not to bump in to a tall dark handsome stranger, I did decide that it was a most pleasing way to make the trip to the Big Smoke.

Several years later, I’ve now got a big grown up job which requires trips to ‘the London Office’. I’m NOT a morning person – the red-eye to London dashes any romantic fantasies about jetting off to the City. These days the BA Cityflyer is more “primark” than “premium”.

“The Caledonian Sleeper” is in fact different trains starting at Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness. I believe they merge at Crewe when things go bump in the night, don’t panic, it’s just the highland and lowland sleepers clunking together. The first time you experience this it can be quite disconcerting, especially if you’re like me and pick the top bunk (I’m convinced the top bunk is a cat’s whisker wider than the bottom bunk and the top mattress endures less bottoms/suitcases so tends to be slightly more plump).

In theory, living in Stirling, I can catch the “highland” sleeper as it heads down from Inverness, calling at Stirling at midnight, allowing me to shower at home and head straight to my on-board-bed. Useful!

Victim of its own success?

Less useful for me – the Caledonian Sleeper is much discussed on Scotland travel forums and is now more often than not sold out weeks in advance these days – less handy for last minute business trips.

Cost of the Caledonian Sleeper 2024

I laughed when I looked back and wrote in 2016 that you could sometimes pick up a 1^st class single for around £120. (Back then a 1^st class gave you your own room so no sharing with snorey strangers, a nice breakfast delivered to your room and access to 1^st class lounges in the station including access to a shower, and free food, drinks, newspapers, charging points for your phones.

I didn’t intend for this post to go in this direction but it got me thinking…Today a one way ticket in the basic “standard” room costs around £240 (no ensuite…although it does include a sink which I suspect many people take a sneaky pee in during their evening). Is the sleeper more “planet saver” than “pound saver”??

Well there you have it. Yes it may be cheaper to fly even once onward travel is accounted for but for me, I still feel drawn to the romance of a night train as new sleeper train services spring up across Europe.

Are you swayed to slumber on the sleeper?

1. As with anything cash buys comfort £425 one way for the double bed en-suite – around double the cost of a night in a 3 star London hotel room!
2. Bathrooms – the “public” toilets on the train aren’t as bad as you might think if you are traveling sans-en-suite.
3. Flip flops/sliders are handy for the romantic middle of the night toilet trips.
4. Earplugs and or noise cancelling headphones are a must – I never travel without them – to dull the hum of the engines and minimise thumps and bangs of 4am train alterations because even the posher rooms don’t block out the rail noises.
5. The “air con” is patchy – I’ve been allocated some rooms like an oven and some like a fridge – layers are your friend. If you get cold you can always nab the spare duvet from the other bunk.
6. Travel with snacks! I’ve heard stories of catering not being available from time to time!
7. The costs I’ve quoted are per room not per person so a travel buddy that doesn’t fart or snore and will split the cost makes it way more economical!
8. Don’t forget to A. open your blinds at Peterborough and pull silly faces at the grim-faced commuters on the platform from your bed and B. don’t forget to close the blinds when changing!

Bon Voyage!